"Welcome to Utah...Life Elevated"
I'm not ashamed to say it, I judged you Utah...polygamy, funky onesie underwear, prohibition, just plain a lot of Mormons. For a lot of our tread through the valley of Joe Smith I've been right. It doesn't seem to me that the people here expect people to think anything else. It's on every billboard, 20 white steeples per square mile, bumper stickers galore, Utah is religious. And, why shouldn't they be? Yeah, it's a bit overwhelming and though we're clear on the other side of the country, I can hear the banjos of deliverance warning me against these people and telling me to leave no trace of my wicked ways, it's understandable. If I came across Utah and there was no one else around, I may have thought that I too had found God and been so high on the altitude that I would think I could show everyone else the way. Knowing me I would also then after realizing that I had this following make up a bunch of rules and take it as far as I could before people drew a line.
I'm not religious much. I was baptized catholic and when I was a tween, I attended youth group for a while, I thought I was Buddhist for about five minutes once after Keanu's 1993 portrayal of Siddhartha. The thing about me and religion is that I never bought it. See, people always say that you will know when God is talking to you, there will be a holy moment when you know that you have been touched, awakened, enlightened. That's never happened to me. There's part of me that feels cheated about that. And as for faith I, even though I have a love for pull tabs and keno, am not willing to place all of my chips on the wrong bet for immortality. I would much rather live day by day and take leaps one at a time dealing with the consequences that will reveal themselves sooner than the afterlife.
Sometimes, things happen, and you can't help but question what is that thing that is outside of you, that seems to change the very person you are without you giving any permissions.
Submission
Zion was a place and an image burned into my head, as where Neo meets his people after learning to bend spoons with his mind, long before I knew it was a National Park. Watching national Geographic and looking through travel books, I began to think that it was something that I wanted to see. The sandstone towers and tube like tunnels looked pretty cool but, Zion seemed not too distinct from any other place with well photographed geographic features. As we left the truck stop motel early on Thursday morning I knew we were taking a chance. Andrew had insisted that we wouldn't need to reserve a campsite or concern ourselves with back country permits before our arrival. Everything that we had seen on Tuesday night made us believe otherwise. I'm sure Andrew knew all along that we were gonna be fine, but I imagined us stranded in the middle of the Mojave wearing pee soaked turbans huddled next to our sand blown car. I'm sure I said a little prayer as we left Beaver, UT and questioned my faith in my partner to get us through.
The car ride was about two hours, I don't remember much about the drive except noting to myself all the places we could stay if we had to turn back. Then, just about when I put in the Shri Durga CD, Matt had burned for me, the horizon started to turn red and the land around us began to rise. We got small very fast. Between the two of of we must of said "This is crazy" for as many Hail Mary-s we'd be assigned should we ever have to go to confession. As we drove through the little towns on the way to the park, it began to get hotter and drier. Things looked unfamiliar and unreal. We got to the gate of the park and I took a deep breath as I was sure that there would be a good chance that the sites would be full and we would be turned away. We pulled up to the gate and there she was checking passes and passing out maps.
"How are we looking for camping tonight."
deep breath
"Well... (big smile) this is a perfect time to find a site at the south campground, just pass the turnoff for the visitor's center and head towards the upper road, it's there on your right. Would you like a park newspaper?"
We got in. Despite our poor planning and my lack of faith, we got in.
We grabbed a site, pitched our tent, and took a drive looking up at the Patriarchs and alters that scatter the landscape of the park.
Neighbor
I have spent a lot of my life worrying about performance, judgment, getting ahead, being the first, best, better than. Comparison is a great motivator, sometimes.
There are a lot of things to see in Zion, they are rated by their difficulty, distance, meters, feet, time consumption, etc. It's over 100 degrees here at noon and it's dry. There are bugs. There are tourists. Moving two feet is pretty difficult already in the middle of the day so trekking to the many attractions around here starts at a pretty heightened "level" of difficulty.
Everyone has prepared differently-REI, Columbia, Nalgene, Payless, Walmart, RV, Pinto, Honda Accord. They all bring their own G-factor- age, weight, kids, language barrier, overbearing boy scout troop barrier, nagging wife. It's a park, it's a lot like other parks.
I've decided that the greatest appeal of the National Parks, is they're ability to make everyone feel like they've discovered something bigger than themselves, by themselves, first.
I invented Zion.
No one has ever done this before.
We get up early, we "gear up", we set out to do it the best, the farthest, the craziest, most extreme, the safest, the longest, the smartest, and coolest.
Andrew and I decided that we would first do The Narrows. The Narrows are a set of canyons that wind far into the park. Originally, we were hoping to do it the "harder" way, hiking down from the top, camping overnight, back country style. Due to lack of planning we had to settle for the day hike way. Five miles-ish up and back down the Virgin River. Everything I had read had prepared me with the knowledge that we'd need at least a gallon of water each, we should pack extra food in case, extra clothes, first aid and orienteering stuff. I didn't want to be up the river without a paddle so it were, so I insisted that Andrew and I each take our hiking packs with all of the necessities and settled for 1.5 gallons of water to split. I will tell you now, I was wrong. We would have been fine with swimsuits, t-shirts, and a small water bottle (a snack is nice too). Now, I wouldn't advise it, but the truth is we saw this bro, wading down the river about half the way up from where we got, barefoot with his flip flops in his hands.
But, here's the thing. When Andrew and I started out on the shuttle up to the Temple of Sinawava, I started wondering, were all these people going to go up The Narrows, how far were they planning to go, had they done it before? It wasn't just me, we were all sizing each other up. "What if they invent Zion first? No way, they have kids, look at his shoes, they're obviously just tourists." Last stop, everyone off the bus. We all begin to wander up the path. The 3/4 mile hike in is gorgeous, but we had been promised the hard part. "You will be wading in the river, the difficulty level is "strenuous." Watch out for flash floods! Once your in the water you are chosen, you are one of the few that is "for real" enough to attempt the journey."
Andrew and I set off! Right as you enter the river you get knee high pretty much. You traverse the river fairly immediately. My feet suddenly were struggling for stability and my legs adjusted to the sensation of walking up river. 5 miles, 4 hours to go, and that's one way. I was already thinking about how much harder it could be to get back. But, I am for real, I have to press on.

We waded for a couple of hours the canyon narrowing ahead of us as the sun became less and less visible. We met a man on his way back that advised us to stay right at the fork. When we got there, we did as told and after hauling up and over rocks we got to a waterfall. We met another couple who decided to turn back there. As they sat and ate their sandwiches, Andrew found a way to climb up and over. We could do it, but it probably wasn't safe. Nervous, that we may be making the wrong decision and may miss the canyon supernova, breakout revolution, that may lie ahead, we stopped to eat our sandwiches and decided that we'd turn around and try the other fork, for a more impressive and honestly, easier experience. As we sat there eating PB&J a group of five with a twelve year old boy made it up the fall and into the canyon. We later ran into them again and they assured up that it wasn't much longer before you got into too sticky a situation and it was "just more of the same".

By the time we found ourselves at the other fork, our almost deserted canyon had filled up with boy scouts and tons people of all shapes, sizes, and ages that had mostly been outfitted in river walking shoes and with rented walking sticks in hand from the outfitters back in town. We headed up through the canyon. It was amazing. All along the way people were so friendly and saying "hi" and sharing travel tips. We got to the end and turned back.
No, it wasn't really the end. Really the end, you can't get to from our direction. And though, we probably could have gotten further, it was the end for us. We stopped, got a picture of our great journey our accomplishment and headed down. All along the way we came across people we had seen. "How far did you make it? Oh man did you guys go all the way?" No doubt, Andrew and I made it further than most. But, as we came back down and saw all the people scattered on the water's edge, a little worse for wear, it became obvious that they had or were all going to make it to the end.
Revelation
I really didn't think I was going to be up for it but, this morning we decided to hike up Angel's Landing. 5 miles round trip, 4 hours. I knew that we had left too late to avoid the mid-day sun and was already coming up with 380523548 excuses why I probably wasn't going to make it the whole way. But, when Andrew's shining face just awake turned to me and asked if I would go of course I was. No regrets right? "The only failure is failing to try." Angel's landing is 5785' at it's peak and it's also considered "strenuous." We packed a little lighter today, cameras and a bottle of water each. I was already sore this morning and could have happily sat in a tub of Ben Gay all day, so I knew this was going to be hard. Note: WAY HARDER THAN THE NARROWS. We had to stop every three minutes for me to catch my breath. Andrew was probably winded too, but he didn't show it. He knows that at any sign of his own weakness I will play up my own. He is very much the man. He is also a great and skilled leader. I had vaguely remembered the outline of the hike from the recording on the shuttle. Hike, hike, hike, 22 switchbacks- just when you think you can't go any further, Scout's Lookout and for the real outdoorsman...another .5 miles to the top. About an hour into it we ran into to waterfall couple from the day before. "It's amazing, but it's a haul." I knew that they weren't going to lie to me. All the way up, friendly faces coming down assured that it was worth it. But, holy moly, it was tough. So, many times I thought I had met my match. Could I stop? Would I be for real? How far was far enough?
Just passed Scout's Landing is the most talked about point on the journey, it's where the path narrows to 3' and there are steep drops at least 800' on both sides. It was when we crossed that, that it happened. I almost started to cry. It was hot, I was tired, I didn't care anymore if others had made it to the top. I didn't care if I was going to invent Zion, I wanted to be back on the ground safe and with a Pina Colada. I knew that Andrew wanted to get to the top. I couldn't let him down. Then he turned to me and said ,"Okay, that's it we need to turn back this isn't the place for you to be breaking down, you can just wait, I'll run up and come back for you." It was at that moment that I realized, I could do it. Not because it was important to the people on the shuttle, the people on the ground, the people that had done it before, Andrew, or anyone. It was important to me. I hadn't met my match yet. I knew that I had not been challenged with something I couldn't conquer.
I made it.
We made it. At the top, I was so scared of the height I could hardly enjoy the view. I pretty much kept checking to make sure that my feet were planted safely on the ground. I started to notice the names people had carved into the rock. Erik, I chose Erik. I wasn't going to carve my name in the rock, so Erik was good enough for me. Erik and I had both made it.
Heading back down, like the day before, we began to meet people at there stopping points. "Oh man, how far did you make it?" "Far enough." As we passed the red, winded faces headed up, it was now our turn to encourage them, "You're really close, just a little further, it's beautiful." I wanted them to make it and if not to the top to the end, far enough for them.
Being here I've really learned that it's not about the competition. Everyone gets far enough for them. We all got to the end, whether it was the top or a half mile in. We all shared in the accomplishment. We had all come further than we had come before, probably further than we thought. We were all Eriks. No one invented Zion or any national park, mountain, lake, anything. What I did invent was my own way of experiencing it.
The most amazing part was watching everyone else invent that too.
Andrew said today, "Doing this makes me feel so human."
I haven't found God in Utah. But, I get it. I have never been so pressed physically and mentally to question the things outside myself. It's important to do. I've spent a little time outside of this ego of mine. Call it being touched or enlightened, but I really think that the real thing is being human. I have spent so much time worried about things I don't need to. In the end what its about is, enjoying yourself and being good to others cause they're traveling too.
So go ahead Utah, you go with your 3.4% alcoholic beers and BYU sweatshirts. I could think of no better place to be religious.
Nicole's Zion Tips
Camping
-Choose a site with trees (we didn't and thus get no shade during peak hours)
-Swim in the creek
-The bathrooms actually flush!
-Don't leave anything melty in the car
The Narrows
-Wear good water proof shoes that are good for hiking
-DO NOT wear jean shorts
-Do wear clothes that dry quickly
-A liter of water per person is probably fine
-Bring lunch
-Leave early, at least by 9am
Angel's Landing
-If you can get one of those fanny packs with water holders, I was so jealous of people who had them
-Don't bring walking sticks- we didn't and I heard a lot of people complaining about them that did.
-Leave early, it gets really hot by noon.
-The hardest part is the top and no exaggeration you could die.
-Take your time it is exhausting.
-I really wish I had put ice in my water.
-Bring plenty of water, it's not Y2K but a liter was barely enough.
-Be nice to everyone.